Chitwan National park sits at the bottom of Nepal, bordering India. For two days we based ourselves in Saruraha, a small country village on the edge of the jungle which, along with the usual suspects, is home to wild crocodiles, tigers, elephants, rhinos and bears.
After a good nights sleep and much needed hot shower, we woke up early for a trek into their home, accompanied by two guides and their sticks. I repeat, sticks. They explained that at one time they were allowed to carry guns but unfortunately, due to some people misusing them (poaching), their only form of defence had been reduced to sticks. Perhaps to poke their eyes out.
When meeting a pissed off rhino, for example, we were told to find…
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